跳到主要內容

Working Note #4

“There is no means of testing which decision is better, because there is no basis for comparison. We live everything as it comes, without warning, like an actor going on cold. And what can life be worth if the first rehearsal for life is life itself? That is why life is always like a sketch. No, "sketch" is not quite a word, because a sketch is an outline of something, the groundwork for a picture, whereas the sketch that is our life is a sketch for nothing, an outline with no picture.”  

-  Milan Kundera, The Unbearable Lightness of Being -

Well, this is another time that I have to leave you all , again; I still remember how my feeling with a heavy heart while I was there during the last night, which not any better than last time I was left Weingut Karl.H.Johner. But the different is : This time with less sadness. I believe if we are still in the same industry like this that we love, we definitely will meet again someday in somewhere. So this "GoodBye" just for the time being. Thank you so much for taking such good care on me and I was always felt being welcomed. Best Wishes !!
At this place, it is special as I was not only learn how to work on Vine / Wine, but also how to live - The meaning of Life Style itself; A brand new direction of thoughts, and seems like there is a bright path ahead that I wish I am able to grab and make it become real in the future, and  keep going on it till the end. 

" Earn for Living", these words I was learnt from a senior in Harbor Grand Hong Kong, and now I've got the meaning by practice and experience. These changes, may have a far - reaching influence for my whole life...... 
18th Dec, 2016. I was so glad being invited having a pre-celebrate dinner party with all staff and their families. Although are not any fancy things : We ate, We talked, and back to cellar having party 2nd Round again; We drank, We sang Christmas Songs together. I felt so warm with all of you even in a such chilled night.  
 And also due to the circumstance that not predict as planned, I have to leave HohenSulzen earlier before Christmas holiday and now I am back to Bischoffingen. It is so great to see all the familiar faces again. Life always contain full of miracles.
This trip, I am sure that I am currently in one of the most colorful chapter of my life story, firmly. However, things which are beautiful always came along with defects. It is pity that the person who I want to share all I have seen and experienced, she is not here with me at the moment .... and for her too .... But I know, we are connected together.  
“There are infinite numbers between 0 and 1. Some infinities are bigger than other infinities. But my love, I cannot tell you how thankful I am for our little infinity. I wouldn't trade it for the world. You gave me a forever within the numbered days, and I'm grateful.” 

- The Fault in Our Stars -
Days back to the season of harvesting. Boxes and boxes of grapes were sent by this truck day by day. We were worked around the clock about 13 -15 hours per day, from 8am to unknown, Monday to Sunday. Recalling from my memory, this kind of life was last for around 5 weeks. 

- 1st Pick arrived - 19th Sep - Harvest 2016 Weingut Karl.H.Johner - 

Life within this period is just awake for work and sleep when back to the house, even don't have time to go shopping from supermarket. Yea, that was a bit tough and boring, just like working in Hong Kong, but this is more physically required and, here is far much colder like a frozen robot. Well, think positively, you can taste different varieties of grapes: Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot etc ..... and eat as much as you want; However , in another words, there were too much that I was quite a bit tried of it at that moment. When the harvesting faded out at the end, I felt relief; Also I've got the chances working in the vineyard too. And now, after I've experienced from all these, I'll say I have much more appreciation in this winemaking industry.
0. This is a kind of good weather when doing harvest. Heavy rain is horrible in between, not on day but for next few days;  As rootstock of vine will pick up too much water, although grapes will become bigger, sugar contain, flavors and intensity will be diluted. And for human being or myself mainly, it is always good to work under soft sunshine of course....

1. Most of the time during harvest I was being with German college - Lawrence doing jobs in Cellar, and those picking duties were handled by a group of workers mainly from Poland & Romania. 
2. Selection actually are started when the grape was picked on the field. 
3. A box of Grapes like this is weight about 400Kg;From 8am to 6pm, there will be more than 20 boxes if those workers are go whole hog.
4. After measuring the weight for each box, grapes are going to be destemmed through the carrier. There is a roller in the destemming machine, operating in extremely high speed to generate the centrifugal force for separating the stem and berries. 
5. After destem, Berries will come out through the bottom of machine and transfer to Optical Sorting Machine (Left) for further selection.
5a. The side face of Optical Sorting Machine. By entering different programs, it can blow out those fault berries, small stems and leafs by using Gas suitable for both Red & White Berries. There is a high-speed camera installed, which shooting at thousands frames per second with billions - pixel resolution and LED lighting to illuminate the grapes without heating them.
5b. In here you will find those fault grapes were blew out by the machine. There were some rotted, over-ripped or under-ripped.
6. Even pass through the sorting machine, there are some fault grapes still exist. In order to getting grapes with the best quality, we still have to do the sorting by hand. That's always talking about 6 - 7 hours work on it.
6a. In the front part & the end of Sorting Table, there are different size of holes. Through vibration which was generated by the engine under the table, grapes will be fallen if they are too small. 
6b. And those Grapes stay till the end will be the great one and it tasted Yummy ~ !
7. This is how the overview setup looks like - Photo from Patrick Johner

Alright, at this stage, I think I am better to put a pause about the harvest first. Because when talking further, there will be a long long passage which are related and has to go through. 
Vineyard in the winter - Weingut Kuhling Gallot & Battenfeild Spanier - HohenSulzen

 I am always feel amazing when tasting those wine which are still fermenting. In HohenSulzen we've done a few wine tasting together from barrels and stainless steel tanks after work. The German supervisor - Axel, the man who was in this industry for many years also worked in Italy and Australia. He was always explain about Terrior - different kinds of soil like Gravel, Limestone, Slate etc, how it will affect the wine. In this place, I've came across how charming that German Riesling can be. That's all about its delicacy & elegance.
Underground Cellar - Weingut Kuhling Gallot & Battenfield Spanier - HohenSulzen
 Back to reality, after all those fermentation done, now is the time to analyze the result : how is the wine going to be?
16th -19th, December. Under the instruction of Axel, I was gathered up wine simple from different tanks & barrels. I think there are about 40s kind of wine in total.
So all these simples will send to the lab and analyze its sugar contain, alcohol level, acidity and sulfur etc. Then, winemaker will decide recipe - how will be the best to blend these element together. For example, several hundred liters from Tank A mixed with several hundred liters from Barrel A. They told me it just like cooking.
When the time is come, maybe some of them gone through enough barrel aging, after all those filtering, bottling, labeling & packing process, that's the wine in front of me.

Molsheim Riesling 2013 from Battenfeild Spainer, a Riesling in great quality is always worth to wait a bit for drinking to see how it can be developed. From flavor profiles, even the time did its job and still an aromatic one: Dry fruit notes are started to take place on fresh fruit, Peachy, Pineapple, White Flowers with Minerality and hints of Honeydew; On the palate, those sharpness acidity become soften and friendly; You can feel the structure of body is still sturdy but not over heavy, and imagine it should be even stronger when it was young; All those components tend to be more stick together benefited from aging but the con is that it made the finish a little shorter than it should be. This is definitely decent one even it just sightly started drop from the peak. Overall when you are looking for a German Riesling with quality and good in value, this is the one. 

And, please feel free to let me know if you'll like to get a bottle, maybe we should find a nice day and talk about this nice wine together with a glass on hand ~ ~
Photo on Eiserner Steg - Frankfurt - 3rd, Dec, 2016

Two jobs out of Three were finished. Now is my Winter Holiday ahead to Italy next week: Roma -> Florence -> Venice -> Millan -> Germany. Visiting Wineries in Montalcino, Barolo & Barbaresco should be one of the main aim about this trip. Hoping everything will be fined. And, when I am back my last job will be started in February. 
Next Stop: Winningen in Mosel - Weingut Heymann Lowenstein

留言

這個網誌中的熱門文章

葡萄酒的夢幻 — 鐘愛Brunello。

某天半夜,一覺從夢中驚醒,我有點失落。每次做這個夢,我的心頭總會被佔據數日。我驚訝在夢中的那個容顏竟仍如此清晰仿如昨天,而且夢境跟現實總是相反。接下來我總是會愧疚,不是因為一個人。而是....兩個人。 在云云眾多葡萄酒產區當中,意大利的Brunello di Montalcino可以說是本人五大最愛的其中之一。在兩度品嚐過Biondi Sandi 的Brunello後,傳統派的釀造风格令我留下了深刻的印象; 而Sangiovese的那份多樣性,可塑性更令我一心沉溺於此地。由有紀錄始於十四世紀開始直至十九世紀中期確定於100%的單一提子品種,再經歷二次大戰的戰火洗禮至到1960s,那時有紀錄的就只有11個釀造者; 1968年拿下DOC資格,1970年就有25個+;1980年成為意大利第一個獲得DOCG資格時約50多,到時至今日幾乎二百個多的釀造者,可謂百家爭鳴! Barolo 與 Brunello可以說是意大利酒中的瑜與亮,論重要性大概相當于法國酒的Bordeaux 與 Burgundy。- 抱青 長壽,似遠又近,若即若離,複雜且難侍候,全部都是'它'的代名詞。缺少丁點兒的耐性,它就會令你空手而回,甚至會留下只有高酸苦澀的錯覺。根據我既過去經驗,愈係接近傳統的釀法就愈是如此,特別是當酒還是年輕的時候。成就Brunello的高度複雜性及細緻的均衡度,有人認為是來自於遠古白堊紀時期就已經組成的複雜土層,這裡曾經是被海洋覆蓋的一片土地;又有謂是高低起伏的山巒地勢,那由海拔350米至500米高度帶來的日夜溫差,為葡萄換來可貴的成熟時間:減緩糖份過份累積,維持高酸度,這一下使得耐得起時間考驗的Brunello,為漫長旅途的啓航做好了充份準備。 “ If forced to drink only one wine from Montalcino, I might very well choose Diego Molinari’s sumptuous Brunello.” Wine Advoacte Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino 2003,這酒對於我來說正是官能上的衝擊,是“廣度“:迷人,並不單單是因為複雜無比、花枝招展的香氣,重點卻是在於“密度“ 、凝縮感 ; 而令我一直都未能忘懷...

問誰領風騷。。

自從迷上了喝葡萄酒後,漸漸令我相信,有些事情、事物是需要經過沉澱才能變得更美好。原諒我才疏學淺見識少,好多被認為係神級、高分、天價既酒我都未飲過。可以話我冇能力負擔、冇際遇遇上,甚至係"喝不到的葡萄酒是酸的。"不過我仍然堅信,好既葡萄酒,首要既條件係一般大多數人能夠負擔得起。作為一種飲品,七、八萬一支D.R.C; 四、五萬一支Screaming Eagle係咪好酒,我唔知。或許是個身份象徵、是個目標、是個憧憬都高於其飲用的價值,而且只有小部分人能試到。當然,始終影響酒價既因素實在係太多。 Biondi Santi Brunello,位於意大利中部的Tuscany,鄰近Chianti產酒區。究竟魅力係邊度,令佢成為產區三巨頭之一,甚至聞名於世?其中之一我相信係佢既傳奇。佢對100% Sangiovese既努力同堅持,不斷的選育配種以改良品種,所釀造的酒不斷的獲得各項大賽的獎項。而最重要貢獻莫過於在1932年,他所培育出來以Brunello命名的優秀新種Sangiovese,正式被官方認定,有同樣志向的酒莊紛紛加入種植該品種,大大提升該產區的品質,至此之後” Brunello di Montalcino”成為義大利最高級的酒款之一,並能與Piemonte的Barolo並駕齊驅的頂尖酒款。 Risevra 1983,打開了錫紙,木塞跟瓶頂都發霉了,完全失去了彈性,浸了九成酒液,像是一觸即碎似。開瓶後竟然只有少許老酒味,但不到十分鐘就已經回復典型的Brunello味道,我才驚歎"她"是如此年輕。莊主講過他的Brunello一般要10年才適飲,能存20年或以上;而Risevra 20 - 25年適飲,能存50年之久!當然50年可能係講緊Ex-Chateau,而且講究存放條件,並唔係每一支都做得到。原瓶呼吸12小時,落杯後一切條件都很好,在Burgundy杯亦撐得起,顏色磚紅,甚至接近橙紅邊。淡淡而令人回味的乾花香,是乾玫瑰嗎?還是紫羅蘭?果是Cherry、Plum,再來像是松露、菇類;之後又有陣陣像是油畫、油彩的味道;酒友說是因為這個地方跟以前文藝復興的地方很近使然,也說得通。口感變化不太大,以果味為主,酸度中等,單寧仍然足夠,至少中等甚或以上的Sweet Tannin;After taste Medium+。...

「弱水三千,只取一瓢飲」

人人都話2002年意大利好差好差,難買又易中地雷,Robert Parker就評佢76分;持續大風、落雨、陰天,以為山頂會好D咩,又要落雹、有風暴。係咪真係咁差?我又覺得唔算,可能係因為仲未飲過覺得難飲既2002年意大利紅酒吧。係我眼中,弱年又未必一定係差曬既。起碼價錢大多都比較便宜,而且又可以提早飲用。酒逢知已千杯少,很高興有人能好好欣賞。 如果講流行程度,意大利酒係香港黎講應該係比西班牙酒更高。有人話,宜家既西班牙就好似復興時期,像二、三十年前既意大利一樣。產酒區制度複雜又多、對本地提子品種陌生係一個較大既障礙,而且廠家品牌太多較難管理致使品質參差不齊等,種種因素都令消費者卻步。位處於北部Piemonte 的Barolo, Barbaresco; 中部Tuscany的Chianti, Brunello di Montacino同Amarone等較為人熟知外,其他如Soave, Valpolicella, Procecco, Bolgheri等產地可能已較為次之。 19世紀以來,Barolo被稱為“酒皇“既說法係意大利開始流行並走向世界,但在此以前Barolo是有被釀做成甜酒的。Nebbiolo,一種皮薄果味濃而又能提供強力單寧既提子。傳統既Barolo絕大部分都係在提子完全成熟前提早收割,採取不干預且長時間的自然浸漬,並於巨型斯洛維尼亚木桶長時間發酵熟成,規定上市前要最少兩年木桶以及一年於瓶中陳年,而Riserva則是三年木桶以及二年瓶陳。一般常要十年以上單寧先可以開始醇化而適飲既舊式Barolo被世人認為等待得太長久,以及為左迎合酒評家口味,現代化既Barolo釀酒方式開始流行;縮短浸皮及發酵時間以減少單寧、於較細小的新法國木桶" B arriques  " 及 在上市前延長待在瓶中的時間, 使 氧化 加 速、提早飲用及使更濃厚的木桶氣味滲透酒中。從此以後Barolo給世人的印象就開始改變,亦有稱新木桶的氣味會將本身的玫瑰氣味埋沒。是好是壞,就只決定於個人喜好。 講番支酒,Montaribaldi Barolo “BORZONI” 2002 。有別於一般強力厚重而果味濃鬱,這個以造Barbaresco起家的莊園就造出了一支柔順可口的Barolo。三十餘年樹齡混合新植的十多年葡萄樹,收成後發酵大約15日,...